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Rock Climb Acadia National Park, Maine

Acadia National Park has many great rock climbing spots including: Otter Cliff: 60 feet (18 m) sea cliffs, crack and face climbing, rappel access, routes up to 5.12. At Otter Cliffs, the park maintains fixed anchors on top that must be used instead of trees to belay several climbs. Evaluate these anchors as well, and notify the park immediately of safety concerns. South Wall (Champlain): 3-pitch routes to 5.12, good corners and thin cracks Central Slabs: 1-pitch routes, some good beginner routes, routes to 5.10 South Bubble: 1- to 3-pitch routes, some friction climbing, good beginner routes Great Head: high-grade sea cliff climbing, rappel access, know tides and weather Many other small areas are used infrequently. Good bouldering can be found along the ocean between Sand Beach and Otter Cliff, and near Blackwoods Campground. Climbers at Great Head and Otter Cliff should know tides and weather forecasts; climbing at these areas is more difficult and dangerous at high tide or in heavy seas. Several climbing guidebooks are available locally. A copy of A Climbers Guide to Mount Desert Island by Geoffrey Childs (1979 - out of print) is available for review at Hulls Cove Visitor Center and local libraries.
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